The Great Chili Adventure

Skyline fiends take CityBeat along for a ratings tour of the food most identified with Cincinnati

By Mike Breen


Every year, CityBeat readers make their voices heard in the Best of Cincinnati issue. And, when it comes to chili, year in, year out, those voices speak unquestionably: "Skyline Chili rocks."

With that kind of dominance in the polls, we decided to dig within the organization to see how the individual Skyline parlors stack up against each other. And we happened on just the right guys to do it.

Kyle Garner, who works at P&G and appeared on Who Wants to Be a Millionaire?, and Scott Cunningham, a copywriter who sings and plays bass for local band Promenade, hatched the idea for the "Great Chili Adventure" around New Year's Day 2000. As some friends discussed hitting the usual Skyline for a nightcap, they asked each other why they always favored the same location. From there it snowballed into a very elaborate, very non-scientific ratings system, focused on as many of the different outlets the two could muster.

These kind of "schemes" from Garner and Cunningham have often resulted in Web sites. The two are responsible for ihatecapripants.com, an anti-tribute to those weirdly popular short-long pants, and skanksgiving.com, where Leon Phelps of the Saturday Night Live sketch "The Ladies Man" meets Turkey Day.

The domain name for greatchiliadventure.com, which will feature Cunningham's and Garner's findings, is reserved and scheduled to be up and running later this year.

Cunningham and Garner have hit about a dozen Skylines so far, rating (on a 5-point scale) everything from food presentation and facility decorations to bathroom cleanliness and waitstaff friendliness.

Armed with the duo's elaborate rating sheets, CityBeat tagged along for a few visits and is proud to present the first excerpts of "The Great Chili Adventure." The food from place to place varies very little - all of the chili for Skylines are shipped out from one location - but make or break categories like cleanliness, view and the all-important order accuracy and flexibility (gauged by whether Cunningham's mustard-on-the-four-way request is successful) count heavily.

Remember, Skyline: This is an unscientific and subjective experiment. And look out, Gold Star: You could be next.

CLIFTON (290 Ludlow Ave.)

Facility

Building: Corner of apartment building

Era: 1950s/'60s, remodeled inside (1980s)

Technology: Low-tech ordering (yelling out orders), but digital receipt

Decoration: 3.5; wall of mirrors; celebrity photos; usual brick; '80s wallpaper; Tall Stacks posters; lots of awards

Cleanliness: 3.5

View: 4; wall of windows; overlooks Ludlow (good people watching)

 

Bathroom

Cleanliness: 3; plenty of urine on the floor

Size: 4; separate toilet and urinal

Hand wash/dry: 3; air-dry only (bad); anti-bacterial soap (dispenser intact); sink clean; water got very hot

Entry and exit: Pull to exit with two hands (bad); no handle turn

 

Facility Overall 3.75

 

 

Service

Flexibility: 5; mustard on the three-way

Promptness/Speed: 4; quick, but missed the third person in the party; forks directly on the table (instead of propped up against cracker bowl or on top of napkins)

Friendliness: 5; way friendly (a bit nosey)

Refills: 3; yes, but a little slow; quit before job was done, but eventually came back

 

Service Overall: 4

 

 

 

 

Food

Taste: 4; fine; non-menu chilito was excellent

Presentation: 4; colorful burrito; nice four-way with jumbo plate back-up; sloppy chilito keeps it from a 5 rating

Temperature: 5; hot, hot, hot

Order accuracy: 5; passed the mustard test

 

Food Overall: 4.5

 

OTHER

Menu extras: None

Other extras: Coat hangers; chips

Parking access: 5; manned parking lot in tough-to-find-parking Clifton

Drive-thru: No

Uniforms: Yes; red shirts, black pants (UC influence?)

Napkins at table: Yes

Hot sauce: Yes; plastic bottle

Candy showcase: Yes; limited, with mints and gum only

York Peppermints: Yes

Gumball machine: No

Dessert showcase: No

Credit cards: No

Blue straws: Yes, new transparent ones

 

Other comments: Free validated parking. Awarded "Best Classic Chili Parlor" from Cincinnati Magazine (who?). Waitress almost busted us; Scott almost confesses, Kyle saves the day, calling the rating card a job application. Old-school order lingo. Faint music. Toothpicks in a parmesan cheese dispenser.

 

Overall Rating: 4

 

 

PRICE HILL (3822 Glenway Ave.)

Facility

Building: Not a plaza, not stand-alone; a duplex of sorts

Era: The original Skyline, 1949

Technology: Top notch; computers at server stations and steam tables

Decoration: 2; vanilla walls; early '80s redecoration; too "Ma's kitchen," not "diner" enough; huge photo on the wall from early days

Cleanliness: 3; stuff on the floor

View: 1; storefront across the street

 

BATHROOM

Cleanliness: 1.5; some sort of toilet stain; sink not very clean; sticker from the band Hole on seat lid; inconsistent signage on the doors: "Gentlemen" and "Women" (instead of "Ladies")

Size: 1; one toilet, one sink

Hand wash/dry: 2; paper towel dispenser empty (towels on air-dryer); soap dispenser open on top

Entry and exit: 3; broken handle; able to push door to exit

 

Facility Overall: 2.5

 

Service

Flexibility: 5; mustard on the two-way

Promptness/speed: 5; everything quick

Friendliness: 4; triple-teamed; many "everything all right?" questions

Refills: 3.5; initial refill not prompt, but thereafter overwhelmingly good; to-go cup offered

 

Service Overall: 4.5

Food

Taste: 4.5; tasty; not juicy (fairly dry) but OK; mustard light; cheese exceptionally tasty

Presentation: 4; chilito folded funny and back end fell out, but it was the cook's first chilito

Temperature: 3.5

Order accuracy: 5

 

Food Overall: 4

 

Other

Menu extras: Kids 10 and under eat free 4-9 p.m. Wednesdays

Other extras: None

Parking access: 4; a huge lot; some street parking

Drive-thru: No

Uniforms: Yes; blue knit shirt

Napkins at table: No (but brought a stack)

Hot sauce: Yes; plastic bottle

Candy showcase: No

York Peppermints: Yes

Gumball machine: Yes; part of a candy/novelty machine "wall"

Dessert showcase: Yes; Good Humor ice cream

Credit cards: Yes

Blue straws: Yes; clear ones

 

Other comments: Potato chip showcase. Little cookie case. CDs for sale. Oldies on the radio. Plastic salt and pepper shakers. Free bowling cards offered at register.

 

Overall Rating: 3.5

 

 

FOURTH AND SYCAMORE (254 E. Fourth St., Downtown)

Facility

Building: Southeast corner of ChemEd building

Era: 1990s; modern

Technology: Highest

Decoration: 4; blue solid wallpaper; striking wood and metal; marbletop tables; Budweiser banners

Cleanliness: 4; very clean

View: 4.5; great people watching

 

Bathroom

Cleanliness: 4; urine under one urinal; floor acceptable

Size: 4.5; two urinals, two stalls

Hand wash/dry: 4.5; two sinks, two soaps, two paper towels; clean sink

Entry and exit: 3.5; broken door allows for easy exit (Note: Key to good exit is the ability to touch nothing once hands are washed)

 

Facility Overall: 4.5

 

SERVICE

Flexibility: 5; mustard on four-way

Promptness/speed: 3.5; just a bit slow between order and eating; everything else great

Friendliness: 3; not unfriendly

Refills: 4; beers aplenty; waitress grabbed not-quite-empty beer and brought it back!

 

Service Overall: 4

 

FOOD

Taste: 4; chili very tasty, a bit zesty; rubbery spaghetti

Presentation: 3; sloppy chilito, not wrapped tightly; 'ways a little sloppy; larger 'ways had plate underneath for overflow

Temperature: 3; warm, but not enough

Order Accuracy: 5; even without writing down order

 

Food Overall: 4;
tasty chili pushes overall up

 

OTHER

Menu extras: No menus on the table, but we agree that's kind of cool - for die-hards only

Other extras: BEER!

Parking access: 2; very limited parking

Drive-thru: No

Uniforms: Yes; blue or maroon knit shirts, short sleeves

Napkins at table: Yes; even branded with "Feeling Good and Hungry" and logo

Hot sauce: Yes; plastic bottle

Candy showcase: No

York Peppermints: Yes

Gumball machine: Yes; in entry; novelty dispensers, too

Dessert showcase: Yes; two Good Humor cases, Good Humor table tent menus

Credit cards: Yes

Blue straws: Yes; new, ugly translucent ones

 

Other Comments: Merchandise display by front door. Comment cards on tables. Double steam table. Garlic bread. Centralized vacuum cleaner system. Beer (Bud, Bud Light, Miller Lite, MGD, O'Doul's)!

 

 

Overall Rating: 4.5;
they have beer, for godsakes!

 

 

ERLANGER (3159 Dixie Highway)

Facility

Building: Part of a strip mall plaza

Era: 1980s; decor like a '50s diner

Technology: Old receipts; call out orders with lingo

Decoration: 5; picture of the food on the wall; neon clock; inflatable cow

Cleanliness: 4; floors a little messy

View: 3; Big Kmart, Putt Putt, Bank and a CarX

 

Bathroom

Cleanliness: 4; urine on the floor (possibly Scott's?); towels on the floor; still, not bad

Size: 4; urinal and toilet stall

Hand wash/dry: 4; Scot paper towels; no air dry

Entry and exit: 4; had to pull to exit; trash can ready by door for towel drop

 

Facility Overall: 4.5
(decoration drives its success)

 

Service

Flexibility: 5; mustard on the four-way

Promptness/speed: 3; came early, but Scott's early restroom break slowed things down

Friendliness: 3.5

Refills: 4; waited a little

 

Service Overall: 4

 

 

Food

Taste: 4; something hard in the four-way; watery

Presentation: 4; chilitos looked great; three-way looked bad

Temperature: 4; warm

Order accuracy: 5

 

Food Overall: 4

 

Other

Menu extras: None

Other extras: Forks wrapped in napkins (good); chips, cake and milk; hot sauce in glass bottle (huge)

Parking Access: 4; large lot

Drive-thru: Yes

Uniforms: Yes; blue shirts with custom "Erlanger" embroidery

Napkins at table: Yes (in addition to the fork wrap)

Hot sauce: Yes; glass bottle

Candy showcase: Yes

York Peppermints: Yes

Gumball machine: Yes; Gumball "Wizard"

Dessert showcase: Yes

Credit cards: Yes

Blue straws: Yes

 

Other Comments: Greeted as you enter. This one has a mystical hold on us. Well worth the drive. If only the food was a little better.

Overall Rating: 4

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