Looking to get your Irish up? Greater Cincinnati sports no lack of bars and nightspots that label themselves authentic Irish.
But how authentic are they? We assembled an expert team of Irish and honorary Irish to rate the bars. The team consisted of staff members and contributors - including production artist Patricia Robisch, born on St. Patrick's Day, and advertising assistant (and bar-playing musician) Tracy Walker
along with some imported assistance from Kathy Costello, who hosts the Celtic music show on WNKU-FM every Saturday afternoon.
So what makes a terrific Irish bar? Atmosphere, our judging team agreed. The presence of authentic memorabilia (and a green cardboard cutout of a shamrock doesn't t count). An Irish ballad playing on the jukebox. An Irish accent at the bar.
Other gold standards: Guinness on tap, properly dispensed in a two-part pour. Regulars with personality and a yarn to spin. Affable drunks. Blarney.
One other note: All bar judging was completed before March 17, so St. Patty's celebrations weren't taken into consideration. After all, a great Irish place has to be great the other 364 days of the year.
BEST Overall Irish Bar: Hap's
No question in our panel's opinion. Original owner Gordon Thomas modeled Hap's after the pubs he saw on his trans-Atlantic travels; he opened the place in 1975, naming it after his father. This is the bar where you're most likely to hear Irish accents among the clientele. Where you'll see bronze plaques on the barstools memorializing longtime, long-gone patrons. Where there's a picture of the Pope and a map of the old country tacked to the wall, and where the religiously inclined are known to burn candles during Xavier games.
On early weekend mornings, regulars catch live broadcasts of soccer matches from across the pond. There's absolutely no green beer on St. Patrick's Day at Hap's, but there is corned beef and cabbage as well as Irish stew. This place absolutely oozes the Emerald Isle.
Hap's Old Irish Pub, 3510 Erie Ave., Hyde Park.
871-6477.
BEST SHEPHERD'S PIE: The Dubliner
Irish cuisine, to put it delicately, is not something to aspire to as a general rule. But Shepherd's Pie is a mainstay, and a true Irish pub should do it right. After trying the dish at those pubs that serve it, we give our vote to The Dubliner, which prepares it with ground lamb (not beef, as some other establishments) and colcannon cheese. The accompanying soda bread is dry and lumpy, the butter is salty and calorific. Yep, that's authentic Irish.
The Dubliner, 6111 Montgomery Road, Pleasant Ridge. 531-6111.
BEST BEER & WHISKY SELECTION: R.P. McMurphy's
Every place claims the widest variety of draft beer and whisky and, indeed, rare is the place these days you won't find Bushmills or Jameson, Guinness or Harp. Our panel gives the nod to McMurphy's, where there's an extensive line of bottled whisky as well as (in addition to the aforementioned Guinness and Harp) Bass, Caffrey's, Newcastle, Murphy's Irish Stout, Killian's and many others on tap.
R.P. McMurphy's, 2910 Wasson Ave., Hyde Park. 531-3300.
BEST BAR TO GET INTO A BRAWL: Crowley's
The crowd here is distinctly Ancient Order of Hibernians and friends of St. Patrick. This "townie" bar in the midst of "tourist" Mount Adams establishments wasn't the friendliest of places on our list; the regulars know who they are and know you most definitely aren't. But this is the Irish bar that's been around longer than most. History and tradition, as any good Irishman knows, must count for something.
Crowley's, 958 Pavilion St., Mount Adams. 721-7709.
BEST PLACE TO HEAR LIVE IRISH MUSIC: Jack Quinn's
Lots of local and out-of-town Celtic bands mix it up in a terrific performance space. Many of the places on our list offer live music, but the depth and breadth found here is impressive.
Jack Quinn's Irish Alehouse & Pub, 112 E. Fourth St., Covington. 491-6699.
BEST IRISH BREAKFAST: The Dubliner
Faith and begorrah, you've got to squash that hangover somehow. We pick the Mrs. Mac's Irish Breakfast: Two eggs cooked exactly to order, rashers, bangers and grilled tomato.
BEST FISH & CHIPS: Jack Quinn's
The Atlantic cod dipped in ale batter is golden fried and bathed in your choice of malt vinegar or tartar sauce.
The Blarney Patrol: Kathy Costello, John Fox, Patricia Robisch, Tracy Walker, Kathy Y. Wilson and Felix Winternitz
